The seed germination stage can be a challenging time for beginning growers. However, these simple tips will give even inexperienced gardeners confidence.
Choose quality seeds, seedling and pot
When you go seed shopping, make sure you choose the right variety for you. Your experience as a gardener, budget, equipment, growing methods, expected effect and other factors will determine which strain will give you the best results.
When it comes to your seedling, we always recommend growing the plant in a light non-crowded environment and slightly acidic soil (PH level 6.3-6.5). I recommend using 20-50% perlite in your seedling, as a result the soil will retain nutrients better. The more fertilizer you plan to give your plant, the more perlite you use in your seedling, this will help the soil drain and not allow the fertilizer to clog.
Remember not to water your seedling until the soil is completely dry and only water around it. Also remember that it is extremely sensitive to fertilizers, never plant seedlings in nutrient rich soil, and do not start feeding them with fertilizers until they have 3-4 sets of leaves.
When it comes to choosing a pot, we recommend the following approaches:
Pots for autoflowering seeds
We recommend that you plant autoflowering plants directly in the pot in which you plan to grow them. Because of their short life span, try to avoid excessive stress on the plant, which includes repotting. The size of the pot depends on the variety of the plant and the area of its growth, they mainly use 5-15 l pots.
Pots for feminized seeds
For feminized seedlings, transplanting is not a big problem because they have time to recover from stress. You can easily plant seeds in a starter pot at first, ensuring their health. Transplant only when you realize that the plant can no longer fit in the starter pot. We recommend repotting after a few leaves have grown and the circumference of the pot is completely covered.
Most gardeners move the plant directly into a 12-quart pot, although you can slowly increase the size depending on the variety of the plant. Note that you can (and it is recommended) to repot your feminized photoperiod plants into a larger pot several times to bring out their full potential, so you don't have to repot into a huge pot right away.
Small notes on pots
There is a large selection, starting from simple pots, ending with sophisticated smart-pots. And while it's possible to grow large weeds in cheap plastic pots, there are a few details to consider when choosing a pot.
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Drainage holes:
Make sure the pot has good drainage to keep your plant away from fungal pathogens and root rot. If your pot does not have holes, then you will have to make them.
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Aeration:
One of the properties of the plant substrate is the exchange of air between the roots and the environment. Cloth pots allow the roots to receive more oxygen. As a result, your plant grows faster, more vigorously and healthily, and yields more.
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Pot size:
If you place your small seedlings in large pots, you may overwater them. The roots of the seedling are not yet big enough to absorb all the water from the substrate. Excess water that remains in the soil may rot the roots or promote fungal diseases and attract parasites.
Use the correct stirring technique
Four things are needed for a seed to germinate: moisture, warmth, darkness and time. To ensure healthy plant growth, germinate your seeds using the following techniques.
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Napkin Method:
Carefully place your seed, slightly damp, between several layers of mulch, place it in a plastic container and cover with a lid. Store the container in a warm, dark place (20–25°C is ideal). Make a small hole in the lid to let fresh air inside.
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Water glass method:
Place your seeds directly into a glass full of water and place it in a cupboard for 24-48 hours at 20-25°C. As soon as roots start to emerge from the seeds, they are ready to be planted. If the roots have not grown after 48 hours, go to the tissue method. If you soak your seeds in water for more than 48 hours, they will rot.
The seed is ready to plant as soon as it cracks and produces a small white root. Plant the germinated seeds at a depth of 3-5 millimeters with the protruding root down. Thus, your seedling will not have to change position.
Let's seize the period of awakening
The real challenge begins when you put the seedling in the ground. They are amara of fragile roots and few cotyledons (the first set of leaves). Even minor stressors can fatally damage your plant. However, if you carefully study their needs, you will know how to adapt them to their environment and turn them into healthy plants.
Light, humidity, temperature
Seedlings have very specific needs when it comes to temperature, humidity and light. Any wrong move can have fatal consequences for your little plant. For best results, we recommend growing the seedlings in a propagator, where you will create the ideal environment for them.
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Temperature:
The best daytime temperature for seedlings is 20-25°C, and 4-5°C less at night. High temperatures will cause stress and stunt their growth, which can be fatal at such an early stage. Stress caused by excessive heat is manifested by dry leaves and curled edges. Over time, other symptoms may appear, such as pale leaves and red or purple stems.
On the other hand, low temperatures can freeze plant cells and reduce their ability to transport nutrients, water and oxygen. This will lead to stunted growth and eventually death if not addressed in time. Wilting leaves, slow growth and poor turgor are all indications of low temperatures around your plant.
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Humidity:
While the roots are still very young and developing, the seedling absorbs water through osmosis. To support this process, it is very important to maintain a relative humidity level of 65-70%.
Humidity levels below 20% will severely stunt your seedling's growth and may cause symptoms similar to nutrient deficiencies, such as yellowing or mottled leaves. On the other hand, the humidity level should not exceed 70%. This can cause wet spots on the leaves, which can cause them to wilt, or attract fungi or other pests. When the plant enters the vegetative phase, keep the humidity level at 50%.
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Light:
Seedlings are sensitive to light, so they will burn easily under a powerful HID or LED lamp. Like adult plants, seedlings also burn and shrivel leaves from excess light. On the other hand, due to insufficient light, the plant grows too thin and tall, as a result of which it falls to the ground.
For best results, we recommend an 18/6 light cycle using a CFL bulb with a blue light spectrum for the first 10-14 days. Once they grow real, healthy leaves and 2-3 branches, you can switch to stronger HID or LED lights to start the vegetative phase.
Growing in the garden
An outdoor grower cannot change the humidity or temperature at the push of a button. If you are growing a plant in the garden or yard, you have three options for caring for the seedling:
- Most growers choose to keep seedlings indoors under CFL lights for the first two weeks.
- Alternatively, you can leave your seedlings outside during the day as long as the temperature is 20-25°C and bring them indoors at night when it cools down.
- Finally, you can leave the seedlings outside permanently in a propagator, greenhouse, or some kind of shelter to allow for temperature and humidity changes.
How to water seedlings
The frequency of watering the plant depends on various factors. For the health of the seedling, it is very important to start with a quality and fluffy seedling. It is recommended to grow it in a pot with good drainage (a cloth or open pot is the best choice) with a standard CFL bulb hanging over it at a distance of about 25-45 cm.
The type of bulb, the size of the pot, the exact composition of the soil, the temperature, the relative humidity - all these factors directly affect how often you should water your plant. Remember that knowing when and how much to water your plant will come with practice over time.
The best ways to water a seedling
Negs like warm and moist, but not wet, conditions. While the plant is very young, it receives water through the leaves because its roots are still underdeveloped.
- Water the seedlings regularly, about 3-6 times a day (depending on the temperature). Cover it with something like a dome, a plastic box or cellophane. This will help it retain moisture and improve the ability of the leaves to absorb water.
- Do not water seedlings directly at the stem. Instead, pour water around the plant in a circle with a radius of about 30 cm. This will encourage the roots to grow in search of water. It will also prevent moisture from accumulating near the stem, which can promote the growth of harmful fungi such as pythium, botrytis and fusarium.
When to water the seedlings
Remember! - There is no universal watering schedule. When and how to water your young plant depends on the factors mentioned above. It is recommended to water them when the soil dries. To check this, you can stick your finger about 2 cm deep into the soil.
When it's time to water the seedlings, it's best to do it very early in the morning or before you turn on the lights. This will allow your plant to receive water during the day, when it is growing. In addition, the heat from the sun or lamp will evaporate some of the water in the soil, which will encourage the accumulation of unwanted bacteria and fungi.
How often to water the seedlings
The best time to water a seedling is when its soil is dry, which can happen several times a day. It depends on various things:
- The composition of the soil and how much water it can hold.
- temperature and relative humidity.
- type of lighting. CFL and LED bulbs give off more heat than MH/HID bulbs, which dry out the soil faster.
- pot size.
- How much water you give when watering (see below).
How much water should be given to the seedling when watering
Again, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to watering a plant, let alone a seedling. The amount of water you should give your plant depends on the size of the pot. In most cases, you won't need to give your seedling more than 1-2 cups of water.
How to avoid fading
We have all experienced this situation, your seedling looks perfectly healthy and suddenly its leaves start to fall or its stem bends and the plant falls down, within 24 hours (or less) they are dead.
These are all caused by fungi such as pythium, botrytis and fusarium. Although they are dormant in the soil, excessive moisture can cause them to become active. Overwatering and high humidity are the most common causes of seedling rot.
Unfortunately, by the time your plant shows the first signs of wilting (a limp and discolored stem), there is little we can do to save it. We simply recommend removing the affected seedling from the soil as soon as possible to prevent the fungus from multiplying.
To prevent wilting, carefully monitor temperature and humidity levels and avoid overwatering. Also make sure your soil and pot drain well.
Finally, to prevent the spread of pythium, botrytis and fusarium, always use fresh soil or sterilize it by baking in an oven at 85°C.
Problems related to fertilizers
A healthy plant looks attractive and is green in color. Any kind of discoloration on the leaves or stem of the plant can be a sign of nutrient deficiency.
Remember, plant seeds are full of nutrients. This will help him successfully pass the first stage of life. When it runs out of these nutrients, it's time for you to add nutrients through fertilizers to successfully overcome both the vegetative and flowering phases.
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Seedling nutrition:
Seedlings are very fragile and burn easily in nutrient-rich soil. In general we do not recommend feeding the plant during the seedling phase. Instead, keep your seedlings in starter pots until they are ready to move on to the next phase.
From the Internet, you will generally know that your plant is ready for vegetation after two weeks. But this is not true. It usually takes 3-4 weeks after germination for your plant to fully utilize the energy stored in the seed. However, some plants grow faster than others. Therefore, not judging by timing, we recommend repotting and transitioning your plant into the vegetative phase after it has grown at least 3 branches and 4-5 sets of true leaves.
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Transition to the vegetative phase:
After you transplant your plant into its new pot, give it 3-7 days to acclimate. Remember, transplanting is a stressful process for the plant and it needs some time to recover. If you fertilize your plant soon after transplanting, it will most likely not absorb it. This can cause various problems in the future.
Once you're sure your plant has recovered from the transplant, start feeding it with a light fertilizer. For example, a NPK ratio of 4:2:3 is a good start for young plants in the vegetative phase.
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Fertilizer burning:
The plant often suffers fertilizer burn when the seedlings are fed too early, or during the transition to the vegetative phase (perhaps they are planted in too hot soil, or fed with strong fertilizers from the beginning). The first signs of burn are dark green leaves with burnt edges. Failure to do so will cause the leaves to curl up.
Fortunately, unlike many of the other problems we've covered in this blog, manure burn can be treated. Simply stop feeding your plants for at least a week and water your plants with normal PH balanced water. Once your plant grows healthier and greener leaves, you can slowly add the fertilizer back in as well.
When you start feeding your plant, we recommend giving half the recommended fertilizer level for the first week. This allows them to adapt to the new diet.
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Organic fertilizers:
We are big fans of organic fertilizers. No chemical mixture compares to the complex mixture of microorganisms found in organic soil.
When growing organically, the emphasis is on healthy soil from the start, not on tamping it with chemicals. However, remember that organically grown plants do not produce the same yield and results as plants grown with inorganic fertilizers.
How to avoid parasites
Parasites and worms can destroy your plant in less than a day. To prevent this, it is very important to keep the soil and environment clean and at the right temperature and humidity level. Avoid over-watering and learn about different pests in advance, so that if necessary, you can deal with them in time. We will introduce you to some parasites that are quite common and you should watch out for:
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Fungus insect:
These small black fly-like insects feed on your plant and lay their eggs in the moist soil.
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Spider mite:
Black or red spider-like mites live under the leaves and sometimes entangle them with their webs. They like hot and dry conditions.
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Leaf miners:
These small, thin-winged insects leave snail-like marks on healthy leaves.
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White powder:
White powdery mildew is a type of mold that appears as a white flour-like powder on leaves.
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Pythium and Fusarium:
These fungi are hard to spot, but white spots on wet soil may be an early sign of their presence.
Seedlings like warm and humid conditions, unfortunately, so do pests. Keeping it clean and growing the seedlings in a propagator will protect you from the invasion of parasites.
How to avoid a plant that is too long 
The seedling stretches and extends itself to get closer to the light source. To prevent your seedlings from growing unnaturally tall, grow them under the blue spectrum CFL, about 5 cm apart. Also avoid keeping your seedlings in the dark for 24 hours after germination, as the lack of light will make your seedlings unnaturally long.
Let's know when to transplant a seedling
Unfortunately, transplanting seedlings is far from an exact science. Instead of making a strict calendar and schedule, it's better to observe your plant and pay attention to what cues it can withstand.
As mentioned earlier, a good rule of thumb is to repot them when the leaves have completely covered the area of the original pot. After about a week, check the roots of your seedling. If you have successfully removed the entire seedling and pulled out all of its soil, then it is ready to be transplanted.
Remember to remove and transplant your seedling very gently. Any minor damage to their roots can cause such stress that such a young plant will take a long time to recover from.
Bonus step: Getting to know the seedling phase
Inside this dark, cool shell, the seed contains all the genetic information it needs to grow into a profuse flowering plant. When exposed to moisture and heat, seeds can absorb water from the environment. This process is known as ambibition and it is the beginning of life for any plant.
When water enters the seed, it activates special enzymes that cause the growth of a small white root that shoots out of the seed when properly germinated. This root goes deeper into the soil in search of more water, while the seed climbs higher for light.
The seed already contains the cotyledons (first leaves) as a germ, which grow and help the seed to rise. After the emergence of cotyledons, the plant begins to form true leaves. They grow from the main stem and have only one finger.
In the early stages of life, the seedling gets its energy entirely from the seed. As soon as its leaves develop, it will be able to absorb water through them. After that, the first set of true leaves will develop (that is, leaves with at least 5-7 fingers), the plant has already entered the vegetative phase and is no longer a seedling.
Remember, rapid growth and vibrant green leaves are signs of a healthy seedling.
Start growing!
